I had a really great ride and pushed it about as hard as I could the whole ride. We had a few less than the past couple of weeks maybe due to the higher start time air temperature and because a few regulars were not planning to ride like Pugslyyy due to he Half Iron-man this coming Saturday - good luck Pugslyyy and Rick was out due to some traveling to visit family. Wayne stepped in the lead the group and took the slowest group I was planning to lead the mid speed group but Jeff said he was riding the pace and said he would lead it - thanks Jeff - I was looking forward to really hitting it tonight and I did. Jo had a little trouble with the heat as did a few others - hope you are feeling better Jo. I am looking forward to Ride-for-their-Lives this weekend and Leah's pickup ride the Sharon Harris this Sunday. My friend Byran is doing a 400K berva(sp) this Saturday/Sunday God-speed my friend, keep the rubber side down and drink before you need to.
My GPS data id HERE
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
Greenfield recover/training/recover ride
Well I went out to Greenfiled for a nice recovery ride but I was riding by myself and with in half a lap I was sprinting again. I just do not seem to be able to let my self go any slower than I am capable of riding. Now I am a lot slower than most other cyclist but I do like going as fast as I can. I started out riding about 12 mph and I was just listin to some toons and spininig, the next time I looked at the speed I was doing 20 mph. I was feeling real good so I just keep on going. I did thrre loops averging over 17 mph and left great. Caught up to Bryan and Jo who were out there and a road a forth loopwith them at a real recover pace. I had a nice ride and I needed it.
My GPS data is HERE
My GPS data is HERE
Monday, May 3, 2010
Modifing for GSC™ 10 Cadence/Speed sensor for your trike
So you ride a recumbent trike or recumbent bike and all ways want a Garmin Edge 705 or the new Edge 500 but since the GSC™ 10 cadence/speed bike sensor that these GPS cycling computer work with will not work on anything except a diamond frame bike by design you have never gotten one. You could just use the cadence side of the sensor and let the GPS compute your speed and I did that for a while but I preferred the more accurate physical sensor. According to all the Garmin information one can purchase third party ANT+ speed sensors and use them with the Edge 705 or 500(I do not own a 705 just the 500). The manual say to go to a web-page 'www.garmin.com/intosports' for compatible sensors however there are no compatible sensors on that web-page, this is because there is not list of any kind on that web-page nor does anything come up when one searches their website. I bought two different speed only ANT+ sensors and tried to get them to work with the Edge 500 but it would not see either one and they both do work with a VDO Z3 I own that is also ANT+ compatible. I called Garmin and asked how can I get the Edge 500 to work with third party speed sensors or if I had the wrong one where is the list of the compatible one. The 'technician' I got on the phone did not seem to have any idea what I was talking about, five times he put me on hold and when to talk to a higher level person. Eventually he told me they would have to research this and get back to me. That was two weeks ago and in spite of additional calls I am still waiting. If their units do not work with ANT+ sensors they should just say so.
Well having a background in electronics I decided to trying to modify a Gamin GSC™ 10 cadence/speed bike sensor to allow it to both do cadence and speed. I am sure this WILL VOID any warranty on the GSC™ 10 cadence/speed bike sensor but I cannot see how it would have any effect on the warranty on the Edge 500 or 705.
First remove the Battery!
Next remove the rubber pad meant to go between the sensor and the bike frame, save this you will need to put it back on.
Remove the speed sensor arm by removing the screw, be careful the wired connecting the sensor are short and pretty fine - do not break them.
Then using a knife I separated the two halves of the unit.
Like this.
You can now easily see the brown and gray wire that connect the speed sensor to the circuit board of the unit. The wires do not penetrate the board and are just soldered to pads on the surface of the board. Be very careful desoldering these two wires if you pull up the pads you will destroy the circuit board.
Now desolder the speed sensors wires from the pads on the circuit board like this then pull the wires out.
Now you must know where the cadence sensor must be placed to allow the crank arm to swing past it with a magnet on it. From there you must measure to where you plan to locate the speed sensor. I have no way of knowing how long the wire in between the circuit board and sensor might be and still work but I would make it as short as is reasonable. I choose to put mine on the right front wheel using the the mount arm for the disc brake to hold it's mount. This you will have to work out for yourself, mine is mounted temporally on top of the VDO ANT+ speed sensor. When I get it mounted properly I will include a picture. Makes sure the wire is long enough but not a lot longer than you need. I would use either shielded wire or a twisted pair to reduce crosstalk in the wire and use a pretty small wire.
Now feed the wire through the hole where they came out or the screw hole. Then VERY carefully soldier the wires to the pads. Remember do not put any unnecessary stress on those pads.
Below you can see the wires soldered in and the wire pack in to the case. Remember there has to be space for the battery case and the wires will not fit between the circuit board and battery case. Be careful of putting stress on the pads when packing the wire in the case.
Below you can see the case reassembled. The case was originally sealed and held together with a silicone sealant. You MUST reseal the case. You will need to remove all the old sealant from both halves of the case and reapply a sealant to reseal the case, also the whole where the screw was and where the wire came through must be sealed especially around the new wire. I would wait to do this until you have tested both sensors but it must be sealed before it is used around any water. You must also let the sealant cure before attaching it to your trike because the zip ties used to hold it to the trike frame tend to make the case split open if the sealant has not cured.
Below you can see the other end of the wires tinned with heat shrinkable tubing already on them ready to solder to the leads coming from the speed sensor. I am not sure if it is important and most likely it would not matter but I made sure I attached the same wires on the sensor to the same pad as they came off of.
Below shows the speed sensor with the wires soldered together, the hear shrinkable tubing shrank and a wire tie attached to provide strain relief to the delicate wires that are original to the sensor.
It is not shown it the picture above but you should use the same silicone sealant to seal the speed sensor before exposing it to water.
I have had this installed and working for about a week now and have had not problems.
I did this to a spare GSC™ 10 Cadence/Speed sensor that I had bought thinking I could just use two - one for speed and one for cadence but Garmin would not let you do that either.
If you have a question publish a comment or send me a message on the forum or message board.
Well having a background in electronics I decided to trying to modify a Gamin GSC™ 10 cadence/speed bike sensor to allow it to both do cadence and speed. I am sure this WILL VOID any warranty on the GSC™ 10 cadence/speed bike sensor but I cannot see how it would have any effect on the warranty on the Edge 500 or 705.
First remove the Battery!
Next remove the rubber pad meant to go between the sensor and the bike frame, save this you will need to put it back on.
Remove the speed sensor arm by removing the screw, be careful the wired connecting the sensor are short and pretty fine - do not break them.
Then using a knife I separated the two halves of the unit.
Like this.
You can now easily see the brown and gray wire that connect the speed sensor to the circuit board of the unit. The wires do not penetrate the board and are just soldered to pads on the surface of the board. Be very careful desoldering these two wires if you pull up the pads you will destroy the circuit board.
Now desolder the speed sensors wires from the pads on the circuit board like this then pull the wires out.
Now you must know where the cadence sensor must be placed to allow the crank arm to swing past it with a magnet on it. From there you must measure to where you plan to locate the speed sensor. I have no way of knowing how long the wire in between the circuit board and sensor might be and still work but I would make it as short as is reasonable. I choose to put mine on the right front wheel using the the mount arm for the disc brake to hold it's mount. This you will have to work out for yourself, mine is mounted temporally on top of the VDO ANT+ speed sensor. When I get it mounted properly I will include a picture. Makes sure the wire is long enough but not a lot longer than you need. I would use either shielded wire or a twisted pair to reduce crosstalk in the wire and use a pretty small wire.
Now feed the wire through the hole where they came out or the screw hole. Then VERY carefully soldier the wires to the pads. Remember do not put any unnecessary stress on those pads.
Below you can see the wires soldered in and the wire pack in to the case. Remember there has to be space for the battery case and the wires will not fit between the circuit board and battery case. Be careful of putting stress on the pads when packing the wire in the case.
Below you can see the case reassembled. The case was originally sealed and held together with a silicone sealant. You MUST reseal the case. You will need to remove all the old sealant from both halves of the case and reapply a sealant to reseal the case, also the whole where the screw was and where the wire came through must be sealed especially around the new wire. I would wait to do this until you have tested both sensors but it must be sealed before it is used around any water. You must also let the sealant cure before attaching it to your trike because the zip ties used to hold it to the trike frame tend to make the case split open if the sealant has not cured.
Below you can see the other end of the wires tinned with heat shrinkable tubing already on them ready to solder to the leads coming from the speed sensor. I am not sure if it is important and most likely it would not matter but I made sure I attached the same wires on the sensor to the same pad as they came off of.
Below shows the speed sensor with the wires soldered together, the hear shrinkable tubing shrank and a wire tie attached to provide strain relief to the delicate wires that are original to the sensor.
It is not shown it the picture above but you should use the same silicone sealant to seal the speed sensor before exposing it to water.
I have had this installed and working for about a week now and have had not problems.
I did this to a spare GSC™ 10 Cadence/Speed sensor that I had bought thinking I could just use two - one for speed and one for cadence but Garmin would not let you do that either.
If you have a question publish a comment or send me a message on the forum or message board.
Sunday, May 2, 2010
Raven Rock Ramble 2010 - My second metric this weekend
I had a great ride and it was as well done as I have heard. There were the important things like PB&J at all the rest stops, all the rest stops were maned with very pleasant folks, also drinks of some variety and all sorts of snacks. The routes were well marked and at least the metric was well planned with the BIG hill and hard climbs in the first two thirds of the route and the final third was more flat and very nice. I know it is not always possible to plan routes like this but I do believe it makes for a better ride when it can be done this way. I think I had ridden all the roads before except from the other direction in most cases and this made it interesting. The two hardest hills were on Cokesberry and Ball. Cokeberry I have ridden many times and gets up to a 10% grade, I do not think I had ridden the Hill on Ball before it was a spiritual experience get to a grade of 13% and being good bit longer. There were a number of other hills and some were significant but none were more than 9% grade. Most of the roads were very good and even the ones that were not good very not too bad. The weather was good, hot but good. The food provided after the ride was great in my option and there was plenty of it. I was really a good event and I had a good time.
I was sort of pleased with myself I want to try to ride back to back metrics and I have done so. I thought I could do so because of riding back to back three quarter centuries at the MS Tour. Well riding two metrics in the hills was a lot more difficult the the two days in the flat land around Newburn.
My problems with my seat on Saturday were caused by the broken seat frame I discussed before. Today was much better. I had no pain at all to about 35 miles then I started to have a lot of pain but it was not because I was sitting on the trike frame. One of the seat straps loosened and allowed the seat to sag and this cause the pain. once tightened it was better but it keeps loosing and the pain returns. I am not sure how this works but I do feel sure it is caused by it affecting blood circulation because even just removing my feet from the clips and putting my feet on the ground almost instantly has an affect on the pain and standing for just a few seconds and the pain is completely gone. I am in hope of the more reclined seat position will improve this by getting more of my weight off mt butt and on to my back in the seat.
Turtle preformed well with just one small problem at miles 4.62 I broke my chain - was very glad I had gotten the master links last week.
I hope to have the new boom with the Schlumpf drive next week - I am looking forward to having the higher gears again.
My GPS data is HERE
My pictures are HERE
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Team CBC Bob's Mayday RIde
I had a real good ride but I have been having some trouble and I may have found out why. First about the ride. We met at Bob's home and it is very nice and in Sanford. We rode the route for the CANC ride which I will be riding next week. There were about 25 of us there and about 7 of us did the metric. I of course could not keep up with the group but did caught them at stops and had a real nice ride. I was riding well but for a while now I have felt the trike was harder to pedal than I remember it being.
After about 40 miles my backside really started to hurt to the point at 45 miles I had to get off the trike and I tried to tighten the seat straps because I had discovered that I was riding with my backside on the frame of the trike. Tighten the straps did not help much but I did notice something when doing this and that was that the straps were as tight as they would go yet the seat was still sagging and allowing my backside to ride on the frame. I had to stop again at 55 miles just to give my backside a rest. I decided I had to do something about or ride a 30 ride at Raven Rock on Sunday. Thursday night at the Slow Spokes ride I had noticed the the rear of the trike seemed really flexible and I did not remember it being like that. I was now afraid that I may have a cracked frame, but I checked it out and all seemed fine. While trying to get some padding between my seat and the trike frame I found the problem, the seat frame was bent and cracked in two places. I am sure that the original damage to the seat frame happened when I flipped the trike. Ever since then I have been having trouble controlling the trike and the damage to the seat are consistent with and impact. Turtle has been very difficult to control at speed of as little at 24 mph and I use to be able to do fine at 32 to 34 mph. It seems that the seat and it's stays are part of the frame structure and is necessary to keep the rear of the trike ridge. I replaced the seat with the replacement Chrom-Molly seat frame Terratrike had sent me and I believe I should be fine for riding my second metric this weekend at Raver Rock Sunday.
My GPS data is HERE
My pictures are HERE
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